Category Archives: Reviews

Reviews of programs, games, hardware and other gadgets…

Hey NVIDIA, your magical new DLDSR is broken and performs worse than old DSR…

Few days ago NVIDIA announced new DLDSR feature or Deep Learning Dynamic Super Resolution. And I was waiting in excitement to try it out today with new driver they released for it. Just to be confused. A lot.

This is what NVIDIA was promising…


Basically no framerate change despite actually running at higher resolution. Cool, right? Well, not quite… Examples below are just main menu of DX:MD running on RTX 3080. Framerate captured with ReShade, was the same when done with feature on my monitor instead of ReShade, but I can’t screenshot that.

NATIVE 1440p (167 fps)
Legacy DSR 2.25x (2160p > 1440p @ 85fps)
New DLDSR 2.25x (2160p > 1440p @ 83fps)

Spot the freaking problem? Old brute DSR that just renders at higher resolution and downscales to native monitor resolution is faster by a tiny bit than “2x more efficient” DLDSR.

What the hell NVIDIA? Sure, I’m not using 1080p but 1440p instead, but still, there is literally no difference in performance between old DSR and new DLDSR. Not only that, they both perform SIGNIFICANTLY worse than native 1440p. I mean like it literally halves the framerate. What’s up with that? Or is Prey some game that just happens to scale so bizarrely well with DLDSR, but Deus Ex:Mankind Divided that I just happen to play right now somehow doesn’t at all?

And to make matters worse, new DLDSR is plagued by same stupid refresh rate issues original “legacy” DSR had and I experience them back on GTX 980. Freaking Maxwell 2 card. Fast forward to 2022 with RTX 3080 and the same nonsense is still present. What I’m talking about is refresh rate being stuck at 60Hz if game doesn’t support adjustment of refresh rate within the game. DX:MD does, but most games don’t. Stupid DSR/DLDSR function just assumes you can only run 4K at 60Hz and will run at that even though the physical monitor is actually 144Hz. WHY?! But if the game supports framerate adjustment, you can set it to 144Hz and it’ll happily run at 4K 144Hz. WHY?!? WHY NVIDIA!? Use the freaking refresh rate of the physical display automatically. You’re scaling it virtually, there is no refresh rate limitation there. Playing at 60Hz on 144Hz monitor is literally painful to watch.

It’s also weird DSR/DLDSR resolutions are screenshotted at 4K as you can see from examples above. Which is also weird. I thought DSR’s downscaling is done with the driver before being actually sent to the physical display output so that it can apply smoothing filter. But from the looks of it it just sends 4K image to the actual physical output. Monitor displays at 1440p because it’s what it is and can’t do 4K, but if I screenshot it, it’s 2160p (4K) because that’s the rendered resolution. Woot? This makes me believe the DSR smoothing slider literally does nothing at default 33% if it doesn’t actually scale anything and monitor does that instead. This doesn’t make any sense, but explains why framerate drops the same with DSR and DLDSR. It’s rendering over 2x as much pixels as native. And framerate is halved as a result.

Either this is just straight up broken or I’m missing something. I know how to use DSR and this doesn’t make any sense.

Oh and as side note, Marty McFly’s effects are nowhere to be found when i tried enabling them with NVIDIA Experience in DX:MD. They just weren’t there. Back to ReShade it is. What an underwhelming and disappointing “feature” driver update…

Seedr, a Bittorrent P2P client in the cloud

Service called “Seedr” has actually been around for quite some time now, but I never thought I quite have the need for it, so I never actually tried it. Until few months ago when I needed to download something through P2P using my phone and using P2P clients on mobile devices with finite battery power and data plans is really crappy. And that’s where Seedr is a cool option. But can also come in handy if you have limited data plan at home or you simply can’t or don’t want to use P2P bittorrent client on your device.


It’s essentially a Bittorrent client, but you don’t install it on your phone or PC. Instead you just login to their webpage, copy & paste a Magnet link or upload a torrent file of files you want to download and voila, they get downloaded to your Seedr storage pool. Then you click the Download button and it downloads it in a single go to your computer or mobile device like a regular download. The file is still being uploaded to others (being seeded) so you’re not leeching, but you don’t waste a single megabyte of data on your end.

There is a free plan that gives you 2GB storage pool and you can extend that by signing up to Seedr using my referral link:

I’d greatly appreciate if you use the link above because you’ll get extra 500MB and I’ll get extra 500MB too. Win win. It’s not much by itself, but helps a lot because 2GB for free plan is not huge amount, so every extra half a gig helps quite a bit. They also offer larger paid plans from 30GB up to 1TB if you need more storage pool to download more and larger files and they come with extra features like antivirus scan with Kaspersky, faster downloading, longer seeding of files, private trackers support and even FTP access to files and HD streaming directly from Seedr which can even be connected to Kodi or Plex. For easier management of downloads, you can use Seedr browser extensions so you don’t have to manually copy & paste Magnet links.

There is no mobile or smart TV app yet, but you can do it all using browser. Technically, you can download stuff on pretty much any device for as long as it can open and run Seedr’s webpage. Might try on my 8 years old SmartTV that’s not that smart anymore, but has a browser… Quite curious if it’ll be able to do it 🙂

Only mild annoyance is working with .torrent files. At first I was wondering what to do when downloads come in shape of a Torrent file and not a magnet link. For example, the LibreOffice above in the screenshot only comes as Torrent file and not Magnet link. Same when I checked Manjaro Linux distro. Only Torrent, no Magnet. And there is a lot of stuff that only comes as Torrent file. Well, as it turns out, you can, but it’s a bit cryptic in the web interface. You need to click the “Upload file” right of the field for Magnet links. That one doesn’t upload a file to the “storage pool” from your computer, it’s actually meant for uploading Torrent files that link to the stuff you want to actually download. I wish they’d made this more clear by calling that button “Download using .torrent file” or something more obvious. There is no such issue when using browser extension which drops Magnet links and Torrent files to your Seedr account directly and start the downloading.

I think it’s pretty interesting concept that can be pretty useful if you’re very limited with data plans or you just don’t want to deal with Bittorrent clients. Another use case can be that your ISP or network doesn’t allow or throttles Bittorrent traffic heavily to which Seedr is entirely immune since it doesn’t really use your connection to do downloads on their servers. Basic 30GB plan is 7€ a month which can be cheaper than buying a higher tier data plan for your mobile device to compensate for larger traffic when using P2P client on your (local) device itself.

In case you don’t want to use my referral link above, you can just check Seedr service here:

Let me know what you think of it and if you have any even more exotic use case than I had for P2P downloads on mobile device…

SoundPEATS TrueAir 2 review

I’ve been using Apple AirPods 2 for quite a while and I love them. Really low latency, very good audio quality, good stereo separation and really good fit. I’m no fan of silicone tipped earbuds and as such I had VERY limited selection of earbuds to go with.

Some time ago someone recommended me SoundPEATS TrueAir 2. I checked for them recently and spotted a great deal on Amazon. I got them for 24€ (they seem to go for 35€). And I said to myself, lets try them out. I was testing them entire day yesterday and here are my findings…

I’ll compare them to 5x more expensive AirPods 2 since I have a lot of hours with those…


  • decent sound quality
  • decent bass
  • 5h play time with extra 20h charge from case
  • compact case the same size as AirPods 2
  • touch controls are reliable and well defined
  • Game Mode for extra lower latency
  • earbuds and case cover snap into place with satisfying “click” using magnets
  • USB-C charge port
  • price


  • case feels a bit plasticky and “too light” for the size

The case feels a bit light and feels like they could put bigger battery in it for the size, but since it has same charge capacity as AirPods 2 at roughly the same case size, I don’t really have an issue with it, it’s just a perception or feeling when you’re holding the case. And that’s really the only issue I have with them if I entirely ignore how much they cost.

Case size is basically the same as AirPods 2 and offers same charge capacity which is nice. Audio quality is decent, so is bass. Sound is very subjective thing to talk about, so I’m not gonna pretend with some magical audiophile words how virgin sound it has. But it’s good and very usable for anything from music, movies and even for gaming. Latency seems to be tiny bit higher compared to AirPods 2 out of the box, but you can enable Game Mode by triple tapping left earbud which does lower latency quite significantly, possibly at slight expense of audio quality. But I generally wasn’t annoyed by it while playing Borderlands 3 even when not in Game Mode. With AirPods 2 I never even got a perception of any latency.

What I like the most is the way how earbuds snap into place when placing them back in the case. I thought horizontal orientation will cause issues when placing them in, but it’s very precise and doesn’t require any special alignment. Case cover feels a bit cheap when you open it compared to AirPods 2 case, but it snaps back together with a rather satisfying “click” so it’s fine. LED inside the case displays state of case battery using 3 colors on a single LED. Green means it’s almost full, orange means it’s around middle of battery charge and red means it’s basically empty. It can be charged using USB-C for which you get a short USB-A to USB-C cable, but no charger. The only charging indicator on the outside is “charging” and “not charging/full” single red status LED. But I guess it’s not that important since you probably want to fully charge it anyway, it’s the charge left that’s more important and it has that inside the case.

For the price, they are amazing. If you are looking for affordable, but still decent wireless earbuds and you too can’t stand silicone earbuds shoved inside your ear, these are really good option. Like, really good option.

Common design flaws in robot vacuum cleaners

I’ve been using 2 robot vacuum cleaners (Midea MR06 and Rowenta Series 60 Anti-Allergy) for a while now, one particularly in the room with computer and bed where dust just never seems to be really gone. I’ve also got quite some experience with entire range of iRobot models and watched quite few tests online to really understand robots quite well. And here are some common design flaws that I want to point out so maybe vendors will fix or improve them. Or just for users to know what to look for when buying one. I’m mostly going to point out the above models, but I’ve also seen a lot about Dyson 360 as well as bunch of “no name” Chinese robots that have the following problems… I hope robot vendors will read this as well as users when looking for new robot. Just decide if mentioned design will be a problem for you or not and then narrow the choices. The list will probably get really long, but I’ll make categories so you can easily jump to things that may interest you more.

Ok, lets go. 🙂

Chassis design (Height)

A lot of robots are pretty standard size, give or take few millimeters. There are 2 models I’m aware of that really stand out. One is Rowenta Explorer Series 60 (RR74xx) models that are super slim at insane 6cm of height only. And at the other extreme, Dyson 360 Heurist at 12cm is one of the tallest robots out there. While being lowest may be beneficial in some cases where you want it to go under, it’s sometimes also a curse. My Rowenta Series 60 can go under my 4 wheel cabinet just enough so it cleans a bit underneath it where other robot bumped into its edge right away, but it also managed to drive itself underneath my office chair and managed to get stuck between 5 wheels of the chair and error out there because it just couldn’t find a way out. Now I need to park the chair and spin the base with wheels so they don’t leave enough space for robot to roll underneath again.

Chassis design (Rubber bumpers)

The biggest design flaw I’ve noticed is poor protective rubber bumper placement. Or lack of it entirely. Roomba S9+, the most expensive robot from iRobot doesn’t have any. Yet it uses front face bumper to register some collisions. You have no idea how ugly robot looks after it has some range on its clock. Entire front glossy as well as matte plastic full of scratches and dents. It’s not a pleasant sight. Dyson 360 has the same problem. Being tall and without any rubber bumper, it’ll look all messed up and worn out over time. These may have advance sensors and cameras, but they still hit into things. Not to mention it will eventually also damage furniture and equipment in your home with repeating collisions.

Some are a bit better by having a silicone/rubber bumpers in the front in a form of a strip, but they are often either placed way too low or way too high, so it keeps hitting things with plastic. Why is it so hard to place two rubber strips, one at the lowest point and another at highest? Chance of getting something in between becomes very unlikely. I’ve added a strip of self adhesive window gasket on one robot at the highest point and then it stopped hitting things with chassis directly. Looks a bit ghetto if you look close, but why wasn’t this done properly in the factory?

Docking station avoidance radius

One of biggest issues a lot of robots have is docking station avoidance algorithms. Midea robot often literally ran over its own docking station when cleaning. Never got stuck, but it makes funny noises. And it cleaned dust of the station which was useful. Rowenta, avoids it in a moderate arc. Similar with iRobot. But I’ve seen some that avoid it in 2 meter radius which is just ridiculous. I have my robot under the desk and such huge avoidance radius would mean it would never ever even clean underneath the desk.

Docking station finding when returning

It’s funny how some robots have issues returning home. Usually those with cameras do just fine because they have a visual representation of the room and where they started, but a lot of camera-less systems seem to just get lost and stuck somewhere after they finish. Rowenta Series 60 for example is often acting like a dork. It has the dock in sight, like 1,5m away yet it bumps, rotates and drives in opposite direction. It usually finds way back, but it’s just funny how it’s almost there, but doesn’t see it. Midea on the other hand looked like it had a rough idea where to go for docking and then looked up the dock when in range. When it couldn’t, it followed the walls until it found the dock. Because you usually place the dock somewhere against the wall. Which is a neat trick. At worst it’ll do a larger circle around room, but it’ll find it.

Cleaning start condition free or from dock

Apparently some robots are not aware of the starting condition. Meaning, if you take it off the dock and for example carry it to a different floor and send it to work there, it’ll just fruitlessly try to find the docking station after cleaning is done. I don’t have enough info how common this is and at least for Midea it seems to be aware whether it starts from the dock and when it doesn’t. When started manually off the dock it always instantly stops and says “Cleaning completed” when it’s done. But when it starts from the dock, it tries to return to it. Which is a very basic but neat thing.

Side brush design

There are several quite common design flaws when it comes to side brushes. And it’s pretty amazing or shall I say shocking that so many vendors mess this up.

Most common problem is that side brushes spin way too quickly, flicking debris around. This especially becomes problematic with camera navigation which is very systematic and anything it flicks into the area that was marked as “already cleaned”, it’ll never return there to pick it up.

Another issue are designs with single side brush, most commonly used by Roomba robots. Sure it has logic so it always does the wall following cycle with the correct side, but the issue with single brush is that only one side is sweeping debris and dirt inwards toward the main roller brush. Which often means the wheel on side without the brush is driving on dirt, smearing it around. Where dual brushes create a super wide zone that’s moving dirt inwards where main roller brush picks it up and collects in the dust bin. And dual side brushes in most cases also sweep against the wheels, cleaning them as well as brushes itself.

Third issue are very short side brushes. Again, most noticeable on Roomba S9 series. Single, very short brush. Not only it just twists in a really weird way on carpets, its reach underneath furniture and against walls is quite noticeable as it often leaves debris near walls and just doesn’t clean dust under furniture where it’s only few millimeters of gap between furniture and ground.

Main roller brush

There are generally 2 different designs. Dual brush design which is patented by iRobot and single brush design used by everyone else. Roomba dual brushes rotate in opposing directions, inwards. This can help grabbing larger objects and using rubber brushes without bristles helps with pet hair and just hair in general coz it doesn’t get tangled up on roller brushes. Downside is they also tend to flick things instead of picking them up. Also makes robot easier to climb on carpets.

Other robots, well at least I can fully confirm for Midea and Rowenta S60 use a rubber strip right behind the roller brush, acting like a scoop. It’ll never flick anything past it because the rubber strip is all the way to the ground and brush is rotating against it, brushing up any and all debris into the bin. Downside is that these scooping rubber strips tend to catch on carpet edges, causing robot to have problems climbing thicker carpets.

Another funny design is yet again with Dyson 360 where wheels (well, “Tank Tracks”) are actually in front of the roller brush as it’s driving around. It’s funny because it means its own wheels always go across all the dirt, increasing chance of things tangling up into drivetrain as well as smearing dirt or rubbing it into surfaces instead of picking it up first and then driving own wheels across clean surface. All others have roller burshes in front and those that do not have side brushes that sweep in front of wheels which neatly solves that “issue”.

Dust bin design

Of all robots I’ve seen and even used, Midea MR06 has the best dust bin design I’ve seen. Period. Full stop. It has a lot of space, one way ingest hatch, large prefilter, large main filter, easy access to all its parts, easy access to main filter and the dust bin can easily be taken out of robot whether on dock or not. Benefit of such design is super easy maintenance and super high efficiency. One way hatch ensures spiders and bugs that it sucks into the bin can’t escape. Which is super neat. Large prefilter and main filter ensure robot can pick up huge amounts of dust without ever getting it fully covered in dust. Usually entire dust bin is absolutely filled with dust chunks before it even clogs the prefilter. Design on MR06 is so good it once managed to gobble up entire really thick crayon that my nephew dropped under the sofa. When bin was already almost full of dust. That’s super impressive.

Rowenta S60 for example has easy to the dust bin itself, but has no one way hatch on the dust bin entrance which is rather narrow so it wouldn’t ever be able to pick up that crayon, prefilter is attached to main filter and both are tiny. Which means dust will build up on prefilter and clog both prefilter and main filter, way before dust bin is even full. Roombas with microfilter have these weird boxes with this bizarre plastic trap hatch that doesn’t really serve any purpose and higher end models like E5 and E6 have dust bins that have a very rough prefilter with no way of getting inside the dust bin for easy maintenance. Both Rowenta and iRobot are huge companies and you’d expect them to do better than this. I’m still looking for a way to make a larger prefilter for my S60. Would be relatively simple if I had a 3D printer, but I’ll think of something. Currently I’ve added standard vacuum cleaner motor filter of same size as main filter which seems to help a lot. But it’s still same size as main filter. I want to make a prefilter of same size as the entire width of the dust bin and make it removable for easy cleaning. That should help it hugely.

And lastly, what annoyed me the most with Dyson 360, the orientation of the dust bin when on dock. The dust bin on the robot is facing wall, not the user. Which makes it very clumsy to take out of the robot.

Wet cleaning attachments are a gimmick

Now to the wet cleaning. My Rowenta S60 happens to have an attachment for wet cleaning, a water tank with microfiber pad underneath. Water slowly drips onto the microfiber pad ensuring it’s wet entire time as it glides across surfaces. I’m not gonna say it’s entirely useless as it did wipe some dirt that didn’t get picked up by brushes and suction, but my god I shouldn’t have looked inside the robot. Wheels were all wet and smeared in wet dust as it was driving across already cleaned (and thus wet) surfaces, side brushes were wet, there was wet dust smeared all over the main roller brush, entire brush compartment, duct from the brush into the dust bin and even inside the dust bin. It’s a maintenance nightmare! Used it once when I bought it and never again.

I have to give credit to iRobot here, but for different approach. iRobot allows robot pairing. First Roomba vacuums the rooms and when it’s done, it sends signal to Braava robots which do the wet cleaning afterwards. This way Roomba will never drive across wet surfaces and smear wet dust all over its internals and Braava, the wet cleaner will really clean only the dirt that couldn’t be vacuumed regular way. Yes, it’s way more expensive, but it’s really the only proper way of doing it.

Movie “Breach” is the weirdest thing I’ve seen in decades

Recently stumbled upon a movie called “Breach”. And since it was about space ship and weird shit happening on it, I was immediately interested. Then realized Bruce Willis and Thomas Jane are in it and it’s a recent movie from 2020. I was like whaaaaaat, how did this thing fly under my radar?! How nobody talked about it anywhere?

Only other movie giving me wtf vibes after watching it was Uwe Boll’s House of the Dead where I literally dreamed about it and had mild nightmares. Like, by just how little sense it made as whole and that haunted me in my dreams that night after watching it. And Breach is on that very same level. It’s actually really difficult to put it all together…

It’s like the authors of this movie got inspired by bunch of cool sci-fi games and movies like System Shock 2, Doom, Aliens (both originals and Prometheus), Stargate- SG1, Dead Space and then just somehow executed it really poorly with really dumb and inconsistent plot, cheesy dialogues, really weird interactions with characters, really weird combat scenes, really weird aliens, really weird ship structure, really weird faster than light travel, really weird ship reactor, really weird… well, it’s a really weird movie with even dumber and weirder final scene.

And there is just something that just can’t escape my head. How the hell Bruce Willis and Thomas Jane ended up in this movie?! How can one make such a weird low budget, low effort movie and get these two actors on board unironically.

I know people often mock Nicolas Cage for crappy movies that don’t even hit theaters, but my god I cannot understand this one. Did I mention it has Bruce Willis in it?

I’m starting to believe this movie was actually a plot by Bruce Willis and Thomas Jane to troll everyone in this god forsaken year of 2020. It was like their “fuck you everyone” gig and I hope they had fun doing it and even more fun laughing at us idiots who watched it. Coz my god I haven’t watched anything this dumb and bad in decades. Not years, decades! If you want a lethal dose of cringe, then by all means, watch it!

I bought myself a robot vacuum cleaner for 45€ on AliExpress and I’m super impressed

I was browsing AliExpress the other day for some stuff and I came across a deal that was almost impossible to resist. I didn’t actually need it, but curiosity got me. Was always fascinated over robot cleaners, but was never willing to drop 500€ or more on it just to try it out. Because it was discounted from some 600€ down to just 45€, I said, what the hell, even if I throw it away after 1 year or even less it’s not gonna be a huge loss at this price.

Midea, what is this brand?

It’s from company called “Midea” (model is MR06) and after some searching, I found out Midea actually isn’t some no name Chinese brand you can only find on AliExpress, but a huge Chinese robotics company that acquired famous German robotics manufacturer KUKA not long ago (if you’ve seen orange robotic arms in factory tours, those are all KUKA robots).

The robot

Unboxing experience was quite similar to iRobot, big box, robot is about the same size as all the iRobot units and is actually designed better by not having stupid shiny black plastic chassis. I absolutely hate that on iRobot because it scratches super fast and then looks ugly as hell. Also because almost all iRobot units are black, they are fingerprint and dust magnets. Nothing worse than dirty looking device that’s suppose to keep your place clean… This Midea robot is matte white except the top cover is shiny white plastic. It has two side brushes (you get 2 pairs in the box) that sweep dirt inwards toward the belly brush (single brush, dual brush system is patented by iRobot so no one else can use it but them) and also has turbine that creates actual suction and air passes through a dust bin with washable plastic pre-filter and what looks like HEPA filter (you get 1 extra spare in the box). It’s probably just EPA, but hey, better than micro filter either way. Unit feels super robust and chunky and really well built. Has an IR sensor I think on top just like iRobot and uses M-SLAM collision system (collision switches) to detect walls and obstacles which also has a rubber lip so it doesn’t always slam into furniture with plastic and also has sensors below to detect stairs or other edges to prevent falling down. Access to NiMH battery is easy with 2 screws so I’ll be able to replace it easily when it wears out. It comes with charging station and it has EU and UK adapters (I got both even though you were suppose to pick one during ordering) in the box and you can charge the robot with the station or by directly connecting it to adapter.

Summary of contents:

  • 1x robot
  • 1x docking charging station
  • 2 pairs of side sweeping brushes
  • 2x EPA/HEPA filter (1x inside robot, 1x extra)
  • 1x EU plug adapter
  • 1x UK plug adapter
  • 1x remote control (2x AAA bateries, not included)
  • 1x large cleaning brush (another small one is attached to dust bin)
  • User manual in several European languages and English one is well written


You can fire it up with single button on the robot or by using included remote control with more controls. It’s a bit chunky but does the job. It has very basic scheduling that can’t be set on per day basics, but you set it in delay and it repeats that cycle every day. If it’s 17:00 in the afternoon and you set 1 hour schedule, it’ll fire up at 18:00 and repeat this cycle every day at 18:00 from then on. It’s a bit weird, but when you understand the manual and try it out, it’s fairly simple and kinda makes sense. You set a delay when to start and when it starts, it fires up 24 hour internal timer that then sends it to clean every day at the same time.

Remote has few other controls like 4 different cleaning modes ranging from random motion to parallel motion cleaning, spot cleaning and return to docking station button.

Oh and the robot is talking about things it’s doing in pretty well spoken English. It says cleaning, confirmations of schedules, when cleaning is completed it says “Cleaning completed” etc. Pretty nice.


After setting all up I fired it up and it moved about my room and the motion logic is pretty decent. I’ve seen basic robots several years ago that cost like 4x as much that were just moving all over the place like headless chicken, missed bunch of dirt and then failed to return back to base even though it was 3m away in its visible sight. This one moved pretty nicely along walls once it found them and when it hit thin obstacles or corners it tried to rotate around and not just turning away. While it was cleaning I jammed it with my foot against table and it was making funny noises for few seconds until it said something about obstacles/getting stuck and turned off. Good to know it won’t burst into flames trying to move while being stuck and has a safety feature that just shuts it off entirely. Checked the dust bin after it returned to base and there was quite some dust and dirt particles in it and I’ve cleaned half of the room with a cordless vacuum just before delivery of robot happened.

Cleaning is done by side brushes sweeping dirt towards center of the robot where central brush is picking up dirt and throwing it into the dust bin. It also has a turbine that creates suction effect so it’s not like those crappy robots that just brush the dust into the bin, this one actually vacuums. I don’t know how strong it is, but the effect is there and the air flow on the exhaust part of the robot was fairly strong so it has to be helping the brushes to some degree for sure.


I was also quite surprised by how quiet it is. You can certainly hear it working, but the loudest part are motion motors for main wheels that have slightly whiny noise, the suction turbine is quite tame and not really annoying at all. It was cleaning while I was listening to music and the suction noise sort of became background noise of the room so I only really heard wheel motors. Also very impressive.

Final thoughts

I’m still shocked I got a proper full featured robot that doesn’t really look that much different than robots that cost 500€ and more. I was skeptical when buying, thinking it’s a scam of some sort, but the more I was inspecting the unit, the more shocked I was what an amazing deal I got here. It looks good, it’s built well, comes with enough spare parts to work for quite a while, battery access is simple and most importantly it seems to clean well too.

This is basically 0 minute impression and not exactly a full fledged review since it only did one cleaning run and I’ll have to use it for longer to see how it really works over time, but so far shockingly impressed. I mean, for freaking 45€ with free shipping! And because it shipped from warehouse from Spain, I had no customs or extra taxes. For 45 €. FOURTY FIVE EUROS! You can hardly get a good cordless handheld vacuum cleaner for this money and here I have a proper robot. Unreal experience this. If you have any questions, let me know and I’ll try to answer them if anyone is interested in this unit and managed to find it at similar insane price.

UPDATE 2020-07-15

Been using this robot for more than 1 month now and I’m even more impressed than in the beginning. And a bit scared for the future. Coz if this one dies one day, which one to buy then?

There is no way I’m gonna buy a robot with single side brush seeing how much wider scope dual brushes have in sweeping dust and dirt into middle of robot where it picks it all up. Dust bins on others, even iRobot look really cheap and clumsy to clean where this MR06 has amazing bin. You can take it out and when open you have easy access to any part so cleaning it is super easy.

Navigation is spectacular given it’s only using bumper switches and IR for navigation. It always seems to follow the same routine for scheduled cleaning. It either begins the cleaning by circling the entire room twice around the edges and then goes zig zag through entire room surface. Or in reverse order, starting with zig zag pattern and then finishing with around the edges path. There are other manual modes, but this seems to be the default for scheduled cleaning.

And with navigation, there is cleaning. And that is amazing as well. I don’t have any carpets (used to have one tiny and it actually cleaned it really well), just laminate flooring and even if I clean the filter and checking it after next cleaning and dust bin will have bunch of stuff in it. I used to vacuum the room with a cordless vacuum cleaner every day and sometimes even more times a day and it always looked clean “on the surface”. But after first few cleanings with the robot there was unusual dust and debris as well as few tiny dead bugs that I’ve never seen in the cordless one. Then I watched it how it’s cleaning and noticed it’s dual side brushes actually sweep super deep underneath the furniture. A furniture that’s just few millimeters above floor. Apparently it swept all this crap from underneath the furniture and packed it into the dust bin. There is no way I’d ever get under there with ANY vacuum cleaner, be it corded or cordless. But these side brushes did it as they are positioned super low coming from underneath the robot. Impressive.

Seeing how this robot is so amazing, I’m wondering if those costing 6x more can even be any better. And in what way. I could use 3 times a day schedule, morning, mid day and evening because there’s a lot of dust because of computer, but that would really be the only thing I miss. Instead mid day schedule is done automatically and I fire it up manually in morning and evening. I can’t think of a single other thing I’d want with the robot. Remote activation with phone? Maybeeeee? But if you have good scheduling, it’s frankly not really needed.

When time will arrive and I hope it won’t be soon, I’ll be looking at Midea robots again. This thing is freaking amazing and it totally hooked me into robotic cleaners. So convenient and thorough I only use the cordless one now to clean everything above floor where robot can’t clean 🙂

AVIRA Antivirus 2020 got new interface

I’ve been lurking around MalwareTips forums when I noticed someone posted about AVIRA getting new interface in their paid Internet Security package. Turns out, AVIRA Free also got a facelift. So I gave it a spin…

Main reason I did so was because AVIRA literally had the worst interface of all antiviruses in existence for literally decades. It was cumbersome, clumsy, fat, outdated and just plain terrible. It was so bad I avoided AVIRA like plague despite constantly scoring highly in tests. New interface looked promising, but I still had doubts knowing AVIRA and their almost legendarily terrible interface designs. Well, here are the findings in regards of new interface facelift.

What’s new?

Biggest change is ditching of weird “modular” launcher AVIRA insisted on for so long. The main interface now looks more like latest versions of AVG or avast!, even in color scheme. Which is not necessarily bad. It actually looks pretty ok and is quite logically organized. On the left there are categories and when you select them you have options on the right side.

What isn’t so new…

What isn’t so new are some of the old interface elements that got carried over from old interface dating as far as 15 years back in time. Yeah, I’m not kidding here and AVIRA seriously needs to step up the game now they finally done the main interface right. Luke Filewalker scanner is still around, old settings panel is still around and detection popup all look exactly the same as they have back when Windows XP was released and “Luna” theme design was a thing. Yeah, it has Windows XP vibe all over the place and it just feels wrong almost 20 years later.


Main interface panel

Security panel

Protection options panel

The “new” old settings panel

Good very old Luke Filewalker…

“New” detection popup with Luna style close and Details buttons…

Additional info

Manual removal of some components in Programs and Features is required to get rid of things that are annoying and you don’t need, but get installed automatically. Like AVIRA Software Updater, AVIRA VPN and AVIRA Cleanup tools. They are all paid features that won’t have any purpose except eating resources and space as some dig into Explorer context menus and run constantly and eat absurd amounts of memory. Software Updater component for example was eating 450MB of RAM. I have 32GB of RAM, but it’s still absurd and serves absolutely no purpose as it’s paid only feature.


New AVIRA interface is certainly a step in the right direction. It’s still not perfect, but it’s at least bearable now. And they need to seriously work on modernizing and integrating old panels and settings into new interface and make it a complete, consistent looking package. If they do this, AVIRA will become a serious competition with good detection and good looks. It’s already half way there and I can finally recommend it as an option.

Give it a try and let me know how you like it. Or just comment on screenshots. Do you like the new design or not?

Need for Speed: Payback review


Ok, ok, I know it’s 3 months since release, but I couldn’t just take a piss at it 2 days after release, because in all honesty, that’s actually enough time to see what kind of game this is. But as a decades long NFS fan, I gave it a proper try and here is my review of this thing…

I actually wanted to make a full blown serious in-depth review of this game, but it’s such a steaming pile of shit I just can’t be bothered wasting my time to do it. I’ll probably still spend an hour or two writing this anyway, but whatevers…

Lets make a quick summary of goods and bads and then I’ll briefly tell you why I think so.

The Goods:

  • Graphics are good
  • Reasonably good car engine sounds
  • Alright music selection for the most part (mostly in garage)
  • Driving model is pretty good
  • World is reasonably diverse with somewhat interesting layout
  • Reasonably OK car visuals customization
  • Reasonable car selection

The Bads:

  • On release day it felt like an expensive 60€ Early Access game
  • 3 months later, it still feels like an expensive 60€ Early Access game
  • Missing tons of content on release day
  • Still missing tons of content we already had in NFS series freaking 15 years ago
  • Unfinished world
  • Microtransactions
  • Speed Cards
  • Idiotic car upgrading
  • Limited car levels
  • Idiotic car tweaking
  • Enforced car classes
  • Stupid races with retarded enforced cars
  • Racers are cheating scumbags
  • No free roaming cops
  • Cops are cheating scumbags
  • Wonky car physics
  • Offroad driving is weird
  • Retarded multiplayer
  • Cheesy and boring story
  • Absolutely annoying “characters” chatter during driving
  • Tons of inconsistencies and illogical stuff
  • Visual car damage can’t be turned off
  • It just doesn’t feel like Need for Speed anymore

I’ll now describe all the things in more details in same order as they are listed above. So you can follow exactly what I meant with that…

The Goods in more details…

So, lets start with the good pars… Graphics look good. Then again it’s Frostbite, getting any less would be a major disappointment. Car engine sounds are also good, although it feels a bit generic at times, mostly because of missing distinct turbo whistling or supercharger whining (because unlike in NFS2015, there isn’t any Supercharger part even available). Music in some parts is good, especially in garage. I like quite few songs there although still not on level of dedicated music created for the game specifically like in pre-2000 era. Driving model is pretty good, cars have a distinct differences in driving feel and whole driving model feels more like Screamer 2 or NFS Hot Pursuit 2010 which is more to my likings. Perfectly holding a drift line through corners is challenging and fun. It just works. Driving around the map is fairly interesting, it has a highway ring basically around it, it has a lot of elevation changes, straights and twisty roads, has flat desert plains, twisty hill roads, certain interesting points like the observatory peak, the dam, canyons, bridges, dense city… I wouldn’t say it’s a peak of possible design, but it’s interesting enough to be enjoyable driving around it. It’s not easy to remember because a lot of things look all the same without really distinct map parts or elements that would make roads memorable. This especially applies to city part. Car customizations are also pretty good. You can keep your cars all stock visually, you can tastefully modify just few details or you can rice the hell out of them and turn them into abominations. It’s your choice and game is not forcing anything on you so that’s fine. There is also reasonable selection of cars, from casual hatchbacks to million dollar hypercars. Can’t complain over that even though I wouldn’t mind if they added few others, like for example something from Tesla to spice things up and make them funky with a fast car that makes no engine noise. Would be interesting.

Now to the extensive The Bads list…

When it was released, it literally felt like a really very expensive Early Access game. It had tons of idiotic bugs, flaws, missing content that they are still adding to the game. And I’m not talking about small eye candy, they are adding whole new segments to the game like actually functioning multiplayer and multiplayer free roam. You know, something NFS2015 released 3 years before had on launch day. It feels like a very eager indie project by some unknown developer. In which case, I’d actually be impressed by the game if it was being sold for 20€ or so. But this is a game from EA. A multimillion AAA developer and this is the best they can make in late 2017? Come on! I also love it how everyone defends Ghost Games like idiots because apparently everyone thinks Ghost Games is some poor 3rd party studio being bullied around by evil EA. Stop doing this shit, Ghost Games IS an EA. Just because EA smacked a label on a group f their internal coders and designers, that doesn’t make them anything. They are still just EA with a different name sticked on top. I’ve bought Killing Floor 2 in Early Access few years ago, made by actual indie studio and it felt more polished and properly designed on Early Access release day than NFS:Payback was on actual proper final release day. Sure they are totally different types of games, but you can’t cheat the feel you get when you play one or another. And while they are adding content, the game is still missing pretty much all the cool things we already had in NFS games in the past.

Game world, while praised in the Goods part, it also has a desert segment on the southern to central part of the map where is literally a big slab of nothingness. I think it only has 1 gas station and few notable structures and that’s it. The 99% rest of it are just empty hills. It feels like they had plans to make something there too, but then somehow forgot it till game was already released and they just said, oh well, fuck it. This goes along with the Early Access remarks. Because it helps game feel like it wasn’t even finished, they just had to push it out because board members wanted moar profitz.

The worst part however is the fact EA shoved microtransations in this game and as a result, totally fucked up entire core of the game which is having fun with the cars, fiddling with them and driving around, trying to hoard all of them etc. What I’m saying here is that EA shoved microtransations in this game and as a result screwed up car upgrading entirely. There is no “car parts” shops or garage anymore. Instead, you get “Speed Cards” which replace the usual car parts you’d install in your cars. Instead of having 20 different parts, you get 6 Speed Cards classes that “upgrade” your car. Except it’s so monumentally retarded I can’t understand what retard at EA thought this is good for any kind of game. But got to get dem moneyz from dumb gamers. You’re not really in control of car upgrading, you drive up to Tune-Up Shop which randomly throws few cards at you and you can decide from that crappy selection which one to buy to slightly boost your car stats. And as you progress through game story, Tune-Up shops slowly give you higher and higher cards. After grinding races for hours you then piss away all the money on these stupid cards moving your car stats back and forth because these cards have stats connected in most retarded way. You buy a Turbo card upgrade and your car also somehow gets a boost or nerf of the brakes. Or buying a “better” block improves your top speed but somehow nerfs your nitro. You can also use random parts generator which is essentially a god damn slot machine in which you throw 3 fucking token points and it randomly assigns a Speed Card from one of 3 categories you pick. It’s so stupid it’s hard to describe it in words. And when you complete the story, if you want to max out all your cars, you have to go through all the 18 levels of Speed Cards each and every god damn time. You can’t just buy all the level 18 speed cards straight away. No, no, no, you have to always go from whatever each car starts at. And you can’t just do that in one go either. You have to leave Tune-Up Shop for 15 minutes so it “restocks” and you can try your luck again. I miss the days where buying car parts an cars was down to hard work and grinding money so you could then buy EXACTLY what you want. Instead, you actually have to grind even more because you then piss all your money and token points trying to upgrade your fucking car. You also get reward Speed Card for winning a race. They give you a choice between 3 “mystery” cards where I bet it literally makes absolutely no difference which one of 3 you pick, behind the front end, game would always assign you the same card even if you had chance to pick any other, so I always just hit confirm key on the middle one. And the card you got as a “reward” often only nerfed your car instead of upgrading it. You can look on NFS Subreddit what a shitshow that was and still is to this date, they just mildly patched it to make it less retarded. They also just released an upgrade like a day ago that introduces “Catch Up” packs to upgrade cars. So, I have a choice between 3 of them. First two literally nerf ALL my car stats. I’d literally pay 130.000 in-game money to make my car worse. The 3rd option is a 180.000 bucks upgrade that boosts car acceleration, top speed, but literally nerfs everything else almost down tot he bottom. Almost no nitro, no air time, shitty braking and so on. You can piss away 500.000 money on single car just because you have to go through tons of utterly useless shit that does nothing but nerfs your stats so you have to grind some more randomized Speed Cards shit in order to upgrade cars. It’s so stupid and makes whole game 100x worse grinding shit any NFS ever was to date. To make things worse, some cars that you may like, can’t even be upgraded past a certain level, making them useless for later in the game because you’re forced to buy better ones in order to even progress anywhere.

Car tweaking doesn’t fall down to installing tires with different properties. It literally doesn’t matter now anymore. You smacked that sweet oversized rear spoiler on your car? Guess what, it does nothing at all. Suspension stiffness, what’s that? All this is gone. I spent hours in NFS2015 fiddling with cars. The game was somewhat boring in general, but the stuff around cars was fairly ok. Installing different car parts actually affected how cars were handling, on top of extensive car tweaking which was dependent on car parts you actually had installed. NFS2015 had quick tweak sliders while free roaming which depend on installed parts. If your car was stock, you couldn’t really change much. But with racing brakes, better engine, turbo/supercharger, spoilers and tires, you could control brake bias, suspension stiffness, spoiler downforce, tire grip etc. In NFS:Payback, it literally doesn’t matter what you have installed, you have like 2-3 sliders for steering responsiveness, drivetrain mode like 2WD or 4WD mode and few other things that depend on car or class.

Talking of car classes, all races have enforced car classes. You need to buy a car dedicated for a certain class. For example, you can’t use a Race class car for Drifting. Or vice versa. In NFS2015 you could just use whatever car you had and just tweaked the parameters in such way to make rear end loose. Here, you need to buy sometimes even same car for different class. For example, I fancy the BMW M5. It’s not enough to buy it once, no, you’ll have to buy same car several times if you like it in order to satisfy the game requirements for each class. Now, place this multiplied spending on same thing on top of already retarded Speed Cards. This game is such a fucking grind fest it’s unbelievable. All in favor of fucking microtransactions because they need to make game as insufferable as possible for people to voluntarily decide to buy part tokens which are a slightly faster way of actually getting parts that aren’t total garbage. Whoever actually buys this shit is a fucking retard and you should be ashamed of yourself if you have done that, spending actual money on in-game content because developer made the game so insufferably lame to grind through that you feel desperate enough to do it.

Oh, and to make things even worse, it was not enough that they enforced car classes for races, they’ve gone beyond that and also enforced races within classes. Most notable being Drag class where you have races that require you to use a Drag car that steers like a crippled whale through city streets around fuck tons of 90° corners and bends. It was one of the most infuriating race I’ve ever experienced right after racing portion of Mafia game. To make pain worse, they made Ai racers so obviously cheating in this race it made me go ballistic. I was sweating with the damn handbrake trying to move the fucking Drag class car through god damn corners using handbrake and Ai opponents were flying through corners like they are driving a god damn agile Race class.  Like fuuuuuuuuck, why can’t you leave Drag racing be a fucking Drag racing? NFS Underground 1 had most fun and exciting Drag racing of all NFS games. Manual shifting, one shot nitro, flying through a straight street between traffic. The rails system actually made it more fun than having full control over steering. But no, they had to “upgrade” it with fuckery like normal race in a wrong car against cheating Ai. Bravo. Thats’ a great plan to make people like your game or race mode…

Now to the part I was most annoyed about and still am. NFS:Payback has NO free roaming cops. Sure, NFS2015 had them and were so boring and useless you could evade them in 30 seconds using stock crappy car. But they were there and they could improve them to a point of being good and fun like in Most Wanted 2005 or NFS Most Wanted 2012. Instead, despite of all the complains, they didn’t bother even tweaking them a bit. They just left them being totally useless. Fast forward to NFS2015 successor, NFS:Payback and you’ll find out there aren’t even any free roaming cops. None, nada, nill, zero. You can drive around at 350km/h and crash into everything and no one will be there to enforce the laws of the road. Cops only exist in limited range of missions, mostly for the Runner class, there are some Bait Crates which you can use to initiate pursuits and recently they’ve been releasing new extra cars all over the map that you have to find and then race back to the airfield to claim them. And that’s where you find out just what kind of cheating scumbags cops are as well. Not only their cars behave like they are on god damn rails, they also have ridiculous acceleration and their tactics are utterly idiotic. Most of the time I get busted by a fucking EMP bullshit that is so unpredictably idiotic you can’t even know how to evade it because you can do same thing twice and once it’ll bust you and other time it won’t. It make it even worse when you’re out in the offroad sections of a map and if they fire EMP on your there it’s basically a guaranteed bust. To make things worse, all these abandoned cars are piles of shit so it makes racing back to airfield not an exciting experience but the most infuriating shit ever. Ever since I started playing this game on release date, I haven’t been once busted by cops being capable like in god damn NFS Most Wanted 2005 from 12 years ago, no, I was always busted by some stupid dumb shit, be it stuck into some fucking rock in the middle of nowhere, getting rammed off the road over the cliff by illogically accelerating cop and busted when it resets you back, nailed by EMP with absolutely no ways of evading it or just getting fucked by wonky physics…

Yup, we had funky things happening in the past NFS games, but the amount of bizarre shit your car will do in this one is just outstanding. Enter a tunnel and hit the 3cm high curb int he middle and your car will spasm out into the air like you hit a god damn jumping ramp. Or flipping over for hitting a small bump in the road or spinning on the front bumper with rear raised int he air for half a minute. or hitting invisible ceilings because you somehow jumped too high or hitting invisible walls because they decided that collision box around ground rock should extend 50 kilometers into the air. When things work fine, the physics work alright, but there is just too much of this really dumb shit that shouldn’t be happening in regards to physics.

Which goes the same with offroad racing. Opponents again being on rails that you can’t move them from, but they can push your around like they have 100 tons and you’re in a fucking Fiat 500. To make things worse, it doesn’t matter what car you have or what tires you use or what car height is, ALL cars without exception have same speed and behave basically identical on gravel or dirt. You can have a Honda Civic or Mercedes G63, they’ll both ride at the same speed over offroad surfaces. That’s just dumb.

Now, lets talk multiplayer. It was bad on release and it’s still bad. Probably one of the worst in entire NFS history. Initially there was a mix of Race and Offroad class. You can’t just decide to play Race class modes because you fancy high speed tarmac racing. Nope, you’re again FORCED to do one offroad race between 2 Races. To make things even worse, I wasn’t aware of this in the beginning when I only had 1 upgraded car which was for the Race class. But no upgraded car at all for Offroad. So, I was forced to compete against others who had both cars upgraded. I was doing reasonably well in Race, but in offroad I was last because my car was shit. The ones game gives you as option if you have none at all are all stock and just as shit as not having a car at all. Later EA added Drift competitions and managed to cock that up again (what a surprise). They made drift points scoring higher if you’re in the front, leading the pack. What people did then was crash everyone into shit or push them ff road and complete the Drift race in front of the rest, scoring highest points. because a developer “Ghost Games” (still just EA) never heard of this thing called “GHOST CARS”. It’s a recording of your best race using a transparent car that can’t collide with you. Same could be done here. Opponents in your view would be a ghost car and you’d be a ghost car to them. Everyone could be on the same road at the same time, doing Drift race while applying the points boost for the one in the front, but with no means for people to ram each other off the road. I’m a fucking nobody and I thought of this solution in 2 minutes that a fucking AAA developer with allegedly professional game designers couldn’t. Fuck me sideways. I’ve spent hundreds of hours in NFS Hot Pursuit 2010 multiplayer and while it was flawed, I’ve had tons of fun in it. It was just designed well enough for it to work and be enjoyable despite its flaws that never even got fixed. This here is just absolutely horrendously terrible. So bad I gave up after doing just once race and I have no wish of ever trying it again. It’s almost as if they never planned to have mutliplayer in this game and they decided to add it anyway pretty much 15 minutes before game was released to public.

Story, while I never demanded one or had any problems with any in racing games is rather cheesy and inconsistent here. For example, NFS Most Wanted 2005 had cool cut scenes that were funny and I couldn’t wait to see what more I’ll see. It also had a really nice plot twist that surprised me more than many heavy story driven games. And then here we have a bunch of missions and races stitched together in really weird way that again gives that weird sensation of playing a game made by very eager designers who don’t have the skills to materialize the ideas proper way. Everything I did to progress through story was just “whateverz”, just let me get over this already. And to make things more annoying is this stupid characters chatter when they just randomly “call you up” and ask you shit or talk to you for no reason what so ever. And they usually decide to do so when you need distractions the least. I’d almost prefer a tree style progression with unlock rewards like we had in NFS Hot Pursuit 2 with no story at all than the fact they spent tons of time doing all these animations and dialogs instead of making properly capable free roaming cops. I just can’t get over that fact…

There is also bunch of weird inconsistencies in this game of which most memorable was when you evade cops in some mission, totally obliterating some bridge across the highway. Just for it to be absolutely spotless 1 minute later. Or how in some part of the story someone says to you that all the cops in the city will be after you from now on and that you should lay low. Motherfuckrs, there are no free roaming cops. I could plow right back into the city, do donuts all over it and literally nothing happens. old NFS games that were story driven had this covered and done properly. You actually had heat level that affected how trigger happy cops are on your presence. But here they say one thing like thy had plans in doing it but then they got distracted by sweet Microtransactions and Speed Cards to be bothered doing it.

What also annoyed me was car damage. Now, the car damage doesn’t affect driving capabilities at all (well, not all). It just makes your lovely car look like absolute shit. But there is no way of turning this off to always have spotless beautiful car. You’ll be riding this wrecked pile of shit most of the time because lets be honest, you’ll be hitting shit in this game. What I meant with that “well, not all” above is that if you like the Hood Camera view, the one where you feel the closest to sitting in a cabin, it’s because when you hit a car into something, the hood will bulge upwards, obstructing your view, forcing you to use way too lower Bumper Camera or some top of the view one. And that’s fucking annoying. Giving players ability to turn off visual damage would solve this. But nope, can’t be bothered with that either.


In all honesty, I haven’t played NFS game this bad. NFS Hot Pursuit 2 was a lackluster but I actually had fun with it. NFS Hot Pursuit 2010 was also a lackluster, but it was fun despite not having any story at all. NFS Most Wanted 2012, it was crappy copy of Burnout that ran like shit on pretty capable hardware, but at least it has properly capable cops and quite fun world so it was still exciting. NFS The Run, despite going absolutely the other way without any open world and car customizations and people bitched over that endlessly for it not having all that, it left a mark on me. The sheer experience of racing across entire United States was really exciting for me, especially because the world was so beautifully crated to really give you feel like you’re conquering large distances. Hell, even NFS2015 was quite fun because of how much you could fiddle with cars and just drive around, despite having absolutely useless cops and also cheesy boring story. Only game that relates to NFS:Payback garbage that it is is NFS Rivals. NFS Rivals was a weird one, it wasn’t absolutely bad as such, it was just so god damn forgettable I often forget where it is positioned chronologically in the NFS timeline. I know it had cops and that you could drive Ferrari after long time of not having them, but that was about it. Like I’ve said, it was just so damn forgettable it’s almost as if it didn’t even exist.

I’d actually say NFS Payback is a decent racing game if it was made by some unknown studio and being sold for even 40€. You’d have no expectations from them because they would have no reputation. And it would probably surprise me as a game worth considering. It does some elements right and a lot very wrong. But that would be OK for a no name studio releasing their first project. However, Ghost Games is an internal label of a group of EA programmers and game designers. This is an AAA (triple A) studio with millions to piss on development and having allegedly capable teams to do the job with perfection. Instead they made this mediocre thing that has nothing fun, no identity, it just feels out of place, made around bunch of eager ideas that never got finished. I gave me sensation like not a single person from development team has EVER played ANY older NFS game. Dropping all the cool stuff people always wanted is just inexcusable.

I’m a NFS fan since TNFS released back in the mid 90’s of the last century and I regret buying this game even for a cheaper price of 30€ from a 3rd party store (which is a reason why I couldn’t refund it). I was disappointed by certain NFS releases, but never to this extent as with NFS:Payback. I was always willing to forgive mistakes or changes and just accept them. But NFS:Payback is so monumentally flawed at its core it’s impossible to look away and ignore the flaws. NFS:Payback would actually be a fantastic game if they ditched the god damn Speed Cards that fucked it all up, if it had NFS Most Wanted 2005/2012 capable cops and car upgrading and tweaking from NFS2015 with classes of cars like in NFS:Carbon which weren’t enforced, but separation between Tuner, Muscle and Exotics made it refreshing and you could pick the right class for your driving style and stick with it. I could ignore the cheesy story, inconsistencies, bad design choices if NFS:Payback had that. But it doesn’t. And because of it it gets the label of being probably the worst NFS game in history of this franchise.

Only buy it if you are really so desperate in playing an arcade racer and even then, only do it with maximum possible discount. In all honesty, it would be difficult for me to pay 20€ for it, knowing I paid 20€ for far better games made by nobody indie teams consisting of 3 developers… This is a disgrace for EA and NFS franchise. Get your shit together EA. The Star Wars fiasco with same shitty microtransactions and this bullshit with NFS made me drop EA on the same list as I have Ubisoft. The DON’T EVER FUCKING BUY THEIR GAME one. I’m a NFS fanatic and since there aren’t any other decent arcade racing games around, I’ll most likely still consider next NFS game, but I’m not just gonna buy it like NFS:Payback. I’ll get a pirated copy first if I’ll have to and evaluate it properly. I don’t even trust their refund policy anymore at this point for it. And then I’ll decide if it’s actually worth the money or not.

Creative Labs turning a new page in history?

I’m pretty sure we’ve all had Creative soundcards in our systems at one point. I’ve started with Sound Blaster 128 back in 1998. And continued this with Sound Blaster Live! 5.1, Audigy 4 Value, X-Fi Xtreme Music and Auzentech X-Fi Forte which was based on X-Fi chip, but with higher quality DAC’s, OP-Amps and audio capacitors. I’ve also had Diamond Monster II with Aureal Vortex and ASUS Xonar Essence STX in between, but that’s for some other time.

Things really changed when I’ve gone back to Sound Blaster with the newly released Sound Blaster Z series at that time. These were the first Creative Labs soundcard series which had zero problems on my system with any kind of audio, be it games or general multimedia. I literally never experienced anything serious with it. That was a good start. Then Sound BlasterX AE-5 happened. Probably the most advanced soundcard made by Creative after X-Fi, capable of outputting 32bit audio at 384kHz and having DSP unit capable of processing 32bit 96kHz audio. They crammed really high end components on it, the sorts you find in Class-D amplifiers. It even makes clicking sound as you’re switching audio/speaker modes and it’s switching circuitry, just like on high end amplifiers. But that’s no surprise, Creative has made high end soundcards before…

What’s really different this time seems to be the part which Creative has been lacking for years and decades. Software and tech support. If you got 2 updates a year and actually got a full driver for new version of Windows, it was basically a miracle. Creative just didn’t even bother. Software was often really buggy, problematic to install and use. Tech support? LOL, what is (was) that?

I’ve had Sound BlasterX AE-5 since October 2017 and what I can clearly confirm is the rate at which Creative is releasing updates for it. To this date, I’ve received 5 driver updates since its launch in August 2017. Last one just released on 9th February 2018. That’s more drivers than 2 old series of soundcards from the past combined! In just half a year time. I’ve also contacted their tech support during this time because AE-5 had a bit buggy software since it’s rocking whole new interface. And they always responded within a day and in case of microphone problems even supplied me a solution and in next update fixed the actual issue. They also dramatically improved installer which is ultra fast now and feels way less problematic than before. And for the new Creative Connect 2 control panel, they listened to our wishes and added few things that were necessary but missing at first (like more user defined EQ presets and not just a single “Custom”). And goodies like Filter mode for the DAC’s which just appeared out of nowhere in the Connect 2.

I have no clue how a long term software support for AE-5 will be, but if they continue this trend and actually provide this kind of level of software and support in the future, things are looking pretty bright for Creative. People won’t have to be scared of buying an expensive soundcard and finding out it’s just a nice paperweight after 2 years or when new major Windows version is released. I guess motherboard makers integrating more and more capable soundcards pressured them into being more active with software support if they want to sell more stand alone soundcards.

If you want an excellent soundcard that actually has superb driver support this moment, get Sound BlasterX AE-5 for sure. Time will tell, but this certainly surprised me. It was about time, damn it. 🙂

DeLonghi AC230 Air Purifier review

This might be a bit unusual thing to be reviewed on my page, but in a way it is related. Every PC user knows dust is the seed of evil. Clogs filters, clogs coolers and fans and it’s just nasty and annoying. If you have a computer that runs almost 24/7, you know dust gathers like crazy inside it and around it. I also happen to sleep in the same room which makes it even worse. I’ve been thinking of getting air purifier for months, but couldn’t really decide. There are literally hundreds of them, mostly what I’d consider as no-name brands. There are also from well known vendors like Sharp, Philips and so on, but they cost a fortune and are ridiculously hard to buy, at least in my country. But in the end, based on several factors, I have decided for air purifier from a well known Italian appliances manufacturer DeLonghi. I have opted for the highest model AC230 because the price difference as well as dimensions of the unit weren’t particularly higher compared to their more basic AC100 and AC150 units. Plus I’ve heard filters for AC230 are significantly easier to obtain than for other two units. Have been using AC230 for several months now, with review being mostly written in the Draft folder, here is my final experience…

DeLonghi AC230

Construction and design


The unit is very sturdy and has no rattling elements. Maybe the rear case plastic is a bit cheap on touch, but the front one you’ll see most of the time is very high quality. The front plastic cover imitates shiny sandblasted metal which also looks very nice. This front panel is locked in place with magnets which make it really easy and durable. No hinges or mechanisms, just strong magnets. Certainly a good and durable design decision. Only bad design choice I’ve noticed so far is the cable storage compartment on the bottom of the unit. Its cover is attached with screws which point out of the case almost as much as the rubber feet. I can see this as a potential problem for delicate floor if you drag the unit around, it might scratch it. Especially over time as rubber feet will wear or compress because of weight and time. I’ve removed all 4 screws on the bottom just to be sure.


It has a 5 stage filtration. Washable pre-filter for larger particles, HEPA filter rated to filter particles larger than 0.3 microns, active carbon filter to absorb toxic fumes and odors, Nano Silver filter with anti-bacterial effect and lastly a TiO2+UV photo-catalytic filter. UV light by itself kills viruses and bacteria by disrupting their cell structure with UV radiation. And with usage of TiO2 (titanium dioxide) mesh, it further enhances this action.

Filter is rated at 720 hours which doesn’t sound like a lot, but I think I know the reason why they rate it at such low number of operating hours. HEPA filter itself may last a lot longer. I’m speculating 6-12 months actually, depending on usage and amount of dust. It’s the active carbon filter that wears out so quickly. So, if you mostly care about dust filtering, you can just ignore the 720 hours recommended replacement cycle. I would still recommend filter replacement at least once a year.

Be aware that HEPA and Active Carbon filter are bonded together. To replace one, you automatically replace both.

I did find another flaw, a green/grey mesh “filter” covering UV bulb started dissolving, I’m guessing it’s because of UV bulb. After removing it, location where it was pressing against UV bulb was just crumbling into dust. I don’t think it was meant to be like this, so I removed it to avoid potential dispersion of these particles into the air. UV bulb is still covered with plastic case mesh for protection.

Make sure to regularly clean pre-filter. I also clean HEPA here and there using vacuum cleaner furniture brush at lowest vacuum cleaner speed and gently go across entire filter surface from the dust receiving side (white one, not the carbon granules side).

Control panel


From left to right…

  • FILTER light which warns you to replace filter (time based, 720 hours of operation)
  • RESET button below it to reset the status after replacement of the HEPA filter
  • AQS control for the front red/orange/blue lighting
  • IONIZER button to toggle ionizer on/off
  • 3 manual fan speeds (Low, Medium and High)
  • AUTO button for automatic fan speed based on AQS air quality sensor
  • Off timer with 1, 2, 4, 8 hours settings
  • ON/OFF button

Buttons are full touch operated and they glow brightly, but they go into dim mode after few seconds. They emit some light to the room, but it’s not annoying even during night. Every touch of any button creates a beeping sound as a feedback for changed settings.

AQS (Air Quality System)

DeLonghi AC230 comes with sensors which detect various particles from fumes, smoke, gases etc and activates the higher ventilation speed depending on severity of the detected impurities to accelerate air cleaning. AQS system is always active, but you can decide not to obey it by manually selecting a desired ventilation speed. To use AQS system, you have to press AUTO button on the control panel. When using manual speed settings, AQS will still show the state of air quality, but will not modify fan speed even if air quality changes.

Pressing AQS button on control panel only enables or disables air quality status lighting, which is useful for night operation, so it’s not too distracting.


Orange is very bad air quality, green means acceptable and blue is for excellent air quality.

There is general misconception that AC230 units have a hardware bug which makes them stuck in certain AQS colored mode. Based on my observations, sometimes air becomes so bad, AC230 is not able to improve it. Opening door or window of the room for few seconds made the unit cycle back to green and later to blue mode. I have also noticed removal of the small green/grey mesh in front of UV bulb improved things a lot and the unit is now able to maintain blue state much easier for some reason.


Like many air purifiers, this one comes with ionizer which is using high voltage needles with ionizing tips to generate negative ions. It’s actually an useful feature sometimes, because it can neutralize bad smells and force dust to fall on surfaces instead of floating around, but can also be annoying if you cannot turn it off. Ionizers create ozone (O3) which is an irritating oxidizing gas and can cause problems with some users. Luckily, AC230 unit has a dedicated ION button to turn it on or off at any time. It’s a simple thing, but you will often not find this even on units 5 times more expensive!

Night usage and noise

As I’ve said before, top control panel emits some light, but gets dimmer when nothing is pressed for few seconds. AQS air quality lights can also be turned off. In terms of emitted light footprint, it’s pretty good and isn’t annoying. Would be nice if there was also option to fully disable even control panel lights entirely. I’m sure some users would appreciate it.

Noise levels are very subjective thing, but if you have the AC230 unit running at Low speed, it’s reasonably quiet. If there are any other noises like quiet music, TV being turned on or having a conversation, you won’t even hear it. At Medium and High speeds however it is quite noticeable. I only use these modes when I’m not around and I want to accelerate filtration.

Sleeping with this unit nearby is possible, but if you’re not used to constant static noises nearby, you’ll want to disable it for the duration of the night.

My room has high temperature changes from very cold to very hot sometimes and I’ve noticed fan noise does change depending on temperature. Most of the time it has an uniform, even noise, but sometimes it goes into a bit more annoying oscillating noise. Imagine having a fan that is not balanced perfectly. It sounds like that here and there and that is in fact more annoying. This also changes depending on distance and angle from the unit.

In general, I think noise levels are very good.

Specifications and comparison with smaller models


Power consumption

Measured with Voltcraft Energy Check 3000 consumption monitoring device on European 230V wall socket.

Consumption at given fan speed:

  • Low: ~41 W
  • Medium: ~47 W
  • High: ~60 W

Additional consumption for optional features:

  • Ionizer: 0.4 W
  • AQS LED status lights: 0.6 W

My usage and results

All observations are based on me having AC230 unit only 1m (~3.3ft) away from my head during day and around 3m during night. Unit is running pretty much 24/7 and is placed on a piece of furniture, 110cm above the ground which is less than ideal, but only option for me. Recommended placement is on the floor.

It did not eliminate dust problems entirely, to achieve that you have to run the air purifier at maximum speed at all times in order to catch more dust particles while they are floating in air and even then, some would still fall on surfaces. But I can sense being a lot less irritated by dust and I also noticed there is a lot less dust being accumulated on surfaces and also inside my computer. Indication of its efficiency is also the amount of dust caught on the pre-filter. It was a moderate amount during a year, but rather large amount during winter time because the heating makes dust particles circulate around the room a lot more. DeLonghi AC230 unit is clearly catching dust in its filtration system.


All in all, a very good all around air purifier. Is well made despite few silly design flaws, has good noise levels, has settings not found even on most expensive units and it’s simply doing its job rather well. There is really nothing that bothers me very much and for the price, it was a very good purchase. I’m still using the first HEPA filter, so I can’t comment on parts availability, but we do have official DeLonghi service chain in my country and filters aren’t that expensive based on prices found in online stores like Amazon. If you’re looking for a good and affordable air purifier, DeLonghi AC230 is an excellent choice for sure.

UPDATE 2017/09/10

After roughly 1 year, I’ve now replaced the HEPA filter. Like I’ve said in the review, HEPA filter doesn’t require replacement every 720 hours of usage. It’s the carbon filter on it that requires that. So, if dust filtration is your primary concern, replacement every year is perfectly fine.


I’ve ordered the filter on and it was 38,10 € with shipping included. Fairly reasonable expense for once a year. And also the only expense as far as this air purifier goes (if we exclude electricity).

I’ve also decided to show you the difference between 1 year used filter and a brand new one, just for comparison how much crap it filtered in this time. Be aware that I have vacuumed the pre-filter several times through 1 year of usage, without that, main EPA would get a lot more dirty than it did…


Left filter is new, right one is the old. You can probably see how much darker the right one is…

And as I was writing this, I realized I was addressing the filter type wrong the entire time. Something I realized after looking at the filter box just now. It’s EPA, not HEPA. In the past it would be fine, but if we’re pedantic, lets go full force as they have changed the classifications a bit 🙂 It’s EPA12 (E12) to be more specific. EPA12 is not a HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air Filtration) filter but “ordinary” EPA (Efficient Particulate Air Filtration). And the number defines a grade. EPA12 is the highest EPA grade which has a filtration of 99.5%. So, it “misses” 0.5% of particles. First HEPA filter misses 0.05%. Next grade 0.005%. And so on…


I think 99.5% filtration is still pretty damn good considering not having such unit would leave 100% of dust in my room. I’d consider even E11 to be reasonable. Where E10, while it does something, missing 15% of all particles is quite a lot. Besides, as you ramp up the filtration, you also increase the air penetration resistance. Meaning you need a higher pressure to push air through the filter, which means more expensive unit because of more powerful motor, more noise as you have to push air through finer filter.

I hope this update is helpful, filter seems to be obtainable for now, will keep you posted how this goes through years of usage…

UPDATE 2020/12/27

Just a quick update since it has been 4 years since review. I had 4th filter replacement in device’s lifetime. I do it yearly. Filters are still obtainable, although they seem to be a bit harder to find on Amazon and eBay. And available ones have increased in price a bit. Unit is still running strong, although it has developed some minor glitches after 4 years of 24/7 operation (that’s around 35.000 operating hours). One LED light for the speed indication has died so one of them only has 2 now instead of 3 (each segment has 3 LEDs). Doesn’t affect functionality, only slightly visuals when running medium or high speed and there is a small gap in light now. It has also developed a slight occasional chirping noise when room is in total silence, which is mildly annoying. Most likely related to the fan rotor or the ball bearings or the tolerances within one of those. Might do something about it eventually. It’s just not annoying enough (yet).