Category Archives: Resolving problems

Posts about tricky problems that i want to resolve or when i manage to resolve them. So others don’t have to go through problem solving nightmares…

Use “thermal throttling” to your advantage on PC

It’s no secret both, Ryzen 7 5800X and GeForce RTX 3080 are hot boyz. They both love to run really hot no matter how big coolers you bolt on them. And if you cool them better by ramping up fans they’ll just boost even higher. And noise is something I don’t tolerate well. I like my system quiet.

So I did something rather unorthodox this time around that actually doesn’t hurt performance much at all, but makes system sooooo much quieter. And cooler.

Temperature throttling the CPU…

Ryzen 5000 has a setting for thermal throttling in BIOS…

CPU_ThermalThrottle

For a long time I treated this as something I need to avoid and it’s there just to protect CPU from burning out. But then it made me think. I’ve been at those temperatures by allowing it to pump as much power as it wanted and raising its clock limits to 5GHz. And all it did was drop clocks tiny bit and it’s not like it just drops from 4.4GHz on all cores down to 2GHz or something. The curve is rather progressive for it to stay at that temperature. So I dropped the thermal throttle limit down to just 65°C. My fans on AiO are set to run at 100% at 70°C. And behold, system was now so much quieter and observing the CPU temperature curve, it hits 65°C and remains there at all times, so fans never actually went to 100% as a result (I have Silent Wings 3 on my Liquid Freezer II 240mm AiO which are rather quiet until 100% speed).

What changes now is the cores clocks. And to my surprise, those haven’t changed much. In gaming, it runs at 65°C and still hits same clocks of 4.85 GHz. I kid you not. There was no change for games as far as clocks go. Played Necromunda: Hired Gun which is very new game and some Battelfield 1. Older, but still very nice looking game which is still relatively demanding. I also couldn’t tell a difference in gameplay smoothness. Probably something like GTA V would cause clocks to drop some more, but these CPU’s are really fast and they don’t need to max out for great performance. There was some change in Cinebench R23 where my usual unrestricted clock was 4.45 GHz on all cores and now it was around 4.2 GHz. Which is still quite respectable and given I generally don’t do much all core loads it’s still perfectly fine and I only lost few 100 points which is nothing.

Temperature throttling the GPU…

I’m using Palit GeForce RTX 3080 GamingPro which has a rather slim cooler that doesn’t extend past PCI rear bracket. It was only version at the time that I could get for normal price and it’s fine. I was playing Automachef yesterday and it was running full tilt even though game isn’t that demanding, making it quite noisy and pumping out tons of heat just because it was running at locked 144fps (my monitor refresh FreeSynced). And I applied same logic as for CPU. Lets just temperature limit the card…

RTX3080_ThermalT

Fired up MSI Afterburner and only thing I did was unlink power and temperature and gave TEMP LIMIT priority, dropped it to 65°C which is the lowest it can go. If temperature allows, it’ll still go to max clocks. And it sometimes does when not under heavy stress on entire GPU. And just like CPU, it goes up to 65°C and flatlines there. No matter what I do it stays at 65°C. Super quiet and it’s now only 1000 points slower than average RTX 3080 in 3DMark Port Royal test. In Necromunda and Battlefield 1, I couldn’t tell the difference once again. But my god it was quieter and under heavy loads clocks were fluctuating between 1500 and 1900 MHz. Quite lower than before when they were stuck at 1900 MHz and above, but drop in clocks doesn’t seem to affect framerate all that much even though in frequency numbers it’s huge.

Conclusion

Basically I prioritized my entire system on temperature and my choice was 65°C because it’s a good balance in my use case. And results are pretty amazing as performance wasn’t penalized as much as I was expecting, but temperature metrics changed dramatically. You can set any temperature limit you want so you can tailor it to your cooling capacity or noise tolerance that you can still deal with. Pretty useful settings.

Fixing MKV H.265 thumbnails in Windows 10

Had issues displaying thumbnails for MKV files that use H.265 encoding. Possibly H.264 MKV’s have same issue, but I was having this issue with MKV’s encoded with H.265. I only had generic media player icon. After digging around I managed to find a tool called “Icaros” made by a guy named Xanashi.

Icaros download:

https://shark007.net/forum/Forum-Icaros-Development

It’s pretty straight forward tool that solved my issue of thumbnails on MKV files. MKV files now display a thumbnail of its video content instead of just generic icon. Hurray 😀

Sidenote: Use 7-zip to unpack ZIP archive of the portable version. Windows is not able to extract it.

Call of Duty: Infinite Warfare movement with arrow keys is fucked up

Now I’m starting to notice a trend with something… It’s games I unknowingly kept in my backlog for years. Max Payne 3, Alpha Protocol, Call of Duty: Infinite Warfare… coz when gaming gods fuck me in the ass, they really go full force.

After I lost interest in Alpha Protocol because of stupid broken hacking “mini game” well knowing it’ll be this jarring trash experience every time I’ll have to hack any system, I dropped it and picked up Call of Duty: Infinite Warfare that was still waiting in my backlog. I mean, how can one fuck up CoD right? Well, they managed to do just that…

I’m old school gamer, back when we played games with arrow keys. And it stuck with me. I don’t like bunch of keys crowded underneath my fingers and arrow keys with surrounding keys with just enough space around provide comfort gaming for my big hands. Been doing just fine for almost 3 decades with some issues here and there. But I really haven’t had them for quite a while and certainly not in AAA games. Usually some indie games or from some B studios that had poor QA or whatever.

Well, started playing Infinite Warfare and I noticed how weird movement is. It’s like keys have a 500 millisecond pause in some cases, especially when trying to move diagonally with forward and left/right pressed at the same time. It’s really awkward and clumsy, like the legs aren’t connected to your body correctly or something. It’s really bad. So I searched online and apparently this is a known thing. Well, it was when game was released and apparently, nothing has changed in 2021.

Tried using WASD and behold, disconnected legs are not a thing anymore. Set back arrow keys and legs are behaving like they are all twisted and tangled up again. What the fuck? How can one fuck up a game in a way that actions you can bind to any key don’t behave the same depending on keys you use? WHAAAAAAAAAT? And to make matter worse, not fucking fix it at all?

EDIT:

Well, in the end I made a fix for a fuckup Infinity Ward couldn’t be bothered to fix.

DOWNLOAD

CODIW Arrow Keys Fix

Gigabyte G27Q monitor bricking itself after F05 update. But not really.

As per my usual Gigabyte tradition, things just have to go wrong with their stuff… Just the other day I was updating its firmware on my Gigabyte G27Q monitor to version F5 which brings some refresh rate fixes. So, I installed OSD Sidekick, downloaded firmware and applied it.

All went well until display went blank during update and monitor began doing what looked like a bricked loop state. Its power indicator was blinking in a weird way with two fast blinks and a longer pause, making weird high pitch noise every time it blinked. Since documentation doesn’t exist on Gigabytes site apart from entirely useless “manual”, I searched online and found someone else had exact same issue on Reddit. Apparently they fixed it by having it unplugged for a day. So I went with that fix. Left it unplugged from power as well as PC (I was using DisplayPort) for the night. In the morning, all excited to finally get to the desktop I plug it in aaaaaand the same thing. Blinking LED, dead monitor. Dafaq?!

Then as I was flipping it around thinking what to try next I realized I only unplugged power, its USB and DisplayPort cables. The HDMI going to PlayStation was still plugged in and I remembered the news about HDMI dongle fooling GeForce cards into allowing mining and I thought, what if presence of HDMI cable alone (even though PlayStation was turned off) is making it fail to operate. So I entirely unplugged it from all power and data sources. Waited a minute, plugged only power cable back and behold, monitor woke up normally. I stuck back in the DisplayPort cable and bam, Windows desktop appeared with OSD Sidekick app still there saying “Finished” in a popup.

Apparently, if you have HDMI plugged in, G27Q monitor will get stuck in a “boot” loop after firmware update. And since the F05 in particular has refresh rate fixes for PlayStation 5, that happening is a very likely scenario since it connects via HDMI.

So, apparently all you have to do to “unbrick” it is to disconnect ALL cables then only plug it into power and turn it on. Once it completes the first “boot”, it will work fine even with all the cables plugged in. What an absolutely bizarre issue that will surely freak out so many users who ventured down this firmware updating route. I just hope they’ll find this blog post and resolve the issue quickly. I can’t tell you have freaked out I was thinking shiny new 300+ € monitor just got bricked and I’ll have to deal with lengthy RMA process. Thankfully I didn’t have to after figuring out the issue myself. I also hope Gigabyte will write down a warning for F05 update that if this happens you need to disconnect it entirely, do a power only “boot” and then connect things back.

Shadow of Tomb Raider sound stuttering and skipping fix

After finally getting RTX 3080 card, I could finally get around finishing the latest game Tomb Raider trilogy. Just to find out the game’s sound in Shadow of Tomb Raider begins to stutter and skip horribly after playing it for few minutes and is even worse when using AirPods 2 where it starts stuttering and skipping right away.

For some dumb reason, this problem happens because game is running at too low process priority. Most games don’t have issues running at Normal process priority. I haven’t ever seen any other somewhat modern game have problems with this actually! However, Shadow of Tomb Raider requires you to elevate SOTTR.exe to High process priority and sound issues go away immediately.

Another gem is, if you Alt-Tab Shadow of Tomb Raider to change process priority in Task Manager, the game then drops refresh rate to 50Hz. So you have to fix that every time you adjust process priority of the game.

I’ve created a tool to specifically address such issues, called Permanent Process Priority Tool and you can download it here. Download the tool, within it browse for SOTTR.exe inside Shadow of Tomb Raider game folder, select HIGH process priority for it and apply it. This will fix audio stuttering and skipping permanently and will apply High process priorrity on game every time you run it.

Excuse my ignorance, but how can game from 2018 have such massive problems because of something this basic? Process priority. HOW?!

How to fix Tomb Raider – Anniversary “Unable to load profile” error

If you’re one of those people who play games over long periods of time (huge game backlogs and stuff 😛 ) and you reinstall Windows or games in between, but want to continue using old save files, sometimes problems happen. I remember Need for Speed: Carbon having such problem where save file had to be from your created profile, otherwise it refused to load it (which is dumb design, but oh well). And Tomb Raider Anniversary is joining that party. Been a while when I decided to play Tomb Raider franchise through and ended up at Anniversary. Loaded it up today and it refused to load the profile with error “Unable to load profile”. Looked up online and only found bunch of people complaining over same thing with no fix. So I figured it out myself.

Here’s how to fix it…

Start the game, get the error, dismiss it and create new profile with different name than your old one. Just call it “NEW”.

Go to game’s profiles folder:

C:\Users\YOUR_USERNAME\Documents\Eidos\Tomb Raider – Anniversary\

Look for your old profile, open the folder and just copy ALL the file from your old profile into folder “NEW” (overwrite all files) which is the newly created profile we just created few moments ago. Rename your old profile folder to “OLD” so you’ll know for the next time which is which.

Now go back into game and load the “NEW” profile. The game should load it up without any errors.

Enjoy 🙂

Firefox Tweaker released!

FirefoxTweakerMainPanel

Because Mozilla just can’t stop with their endless fuckups when it comes to browser design, I wrote this tool to quickly and effortlessly revert or change their stupid “features” that are either endlessly annoying, ugly or totally not functional or helpful and I was sick and tired of dealing with incredibly time consuming and clumsy about:config page.

Firefox Tweaker allows you to change few super important (but hidden) settings in just few clicks through an easy to use interface. There is also a safeguard in place which backups settings file on first run so there shouldn’t be any problems.

For any questions, problems or bug reports contact me via e-mail or through micro-page comment section.

Visit Firefox Tweaker micro page for more details:

https://rejzor.wordpress.com/firefox-tweaker/

Increase audio volume beyond 100% in Windows

In general, the audio volume control for Windows has plenty of range for quietest and loudest volume you ever need, especially on PC with stand alone amplified speakers. However, there are cases where you have to work with what you have and you’re just not getting enough loudness even when you already have volume set to 100%. Like for example laptop speakers or bluetooth earphones. Which was exactly my case.

I have a hybrid netbook that often lacks volume even when at 100% and I had the same problem with AirPods 2. On iPhone, I can get plenty of volume from them, but on my laptop, even at 100% volume, they were just too quiet.

There are some audio “enhancers”, but the problem is they mostly refuse to work with bluetooth earphones as they simply ignore them and other tweaks with Windows Loudness Equalization which doesn’t even appear for bluetooth devices. Until I found Equalizer APO. I’ve heard about it before, but never thought it might resolve this. And it has.

Basically, you need to install it, select which device you want to apply it to like so:

APO_Device.png

There might be more devices listed in your case, only select those that you want Equalizer APO to apply to. My other laptop had Realtek device and AirPods 2 listed when I had them connected. Since I wanted volume boost to only apply to AirPods 2, I only selected those. So laptop speakers work like before, but AirPods 2 have boosted volume. In example above, it’s the hybrid netbook that needed some extra boost in volume.

Then you fire up the Configuration Editor which allows you to control the audio:

APO_Preamp.png

Since I only need volume boost, I’ve removed the rest of features using red minus button. And then cranked up the gain to +20dB (you can use less if you feel desired volume has already been achieved or if you can hear audio distortion). The neat thing about this pre-amp is that it works along Windows volume control. So you can still make things very quiet or very loud using regular Windows volume controls, hardware buttons or hotkeys just like before. But you can go beyond original volume when at 100%, depending on boost you set. Equalizer APO also offers other settings like Equalizer so you can maybe boost highs or bass if needed, but that’s for some other topic.

Right now, we solved the low volume when it could play louder. And that’s all we needed here 🙂

AMD systems can use Windows Core Isolation feature after all

As you can read here I had some problems enabling Windows Core Isolation feature on my Ryzen 5 2500U system. Whenever I’ve enabled it, system failed to work in a way that graphics failed to work if I enabled it.

As it turns out, the reason for this was in outdated drivers. Combination of them. There was also BIOS update… But not the usual kind of driver update. I had all drivers installed, chipset and graphic from AMD. Also full Windows Update.

I had to update drivers using Snappy Driver Installer (make sure to create System Restore Point first if there are any problems) and after that, Core Isolation worked just fine. I’ve used SDI quite often before, but stopped. I guess I’m returning to using it regularly.

Fix for AORUS Engine not starting at all

I’ve wrote about this some time ago and have since found a solution and also disappointment finding out Gigabyte actually removed preset profiles from it so it’s all sliders now…

The faulting module causing AORUS Engine to fail is:
C:\Program Files (x86)\GIGABYTE\AORUS ENGINE\GLedApi.DLL

So, go into that folder and just delete the file. AORUS Engine will start. Go to its settings and check for updates. It’ll find something was missing and it’ll download missing RGB Fusion component which is actually the same thing you’ve deleted, but it works fine with that one for some weird reason.

So, here you have it, a silly fix for even more silly fail that Gigabyte STILL hasn’t addressed. Heh.